Kota Tanjungpinang berada di Provinsi Kepulauan Riau (Kepri). Menyambangi kota ini, tidak lengkap rasanya jika belum mengunjungi Pulau Penyengat. Pulau seluas sekitar 2×1 km persegi ini memiliki banyak peninggalan benda cagar budaya bertalian erat dengan perjalanan sejarah Kerajaan Riau. Salah satunya Masjid Sultan Riau yang dikenal pula dengan Masjid Penyengat.

Pompong (perahu tradisional) menyeberangkan saya dari Tanjungpinang menuju Pulau Penyengat. Masjid Sultan Riau berwarna kuning sudah terlihat dari jauh. Didirikan sekitar 1761—1812, awalnya masjid ini hanya berupa bangunan sederhana berlantai batu, berdinding kayu, dan dilengkapi menara setinggi 6 meter. Baru pada pemerintahan Yang Dipertuan Muda VII Raja Abdurrahman pada 1832, bangunan masjid diperbesar.

MASJID PUTIH TELUR

Masjid peninggalan Sultan Mahmud dibangun mulai 1803 dan rampung pada 1844. Hingga kini Masjid Sultan Riau ini masih berdiri megah. Penuturan masyarakat lokal, masjid ini dibangun dengan putih telur sebagai perekat material bangunannya.

Disebutkan, kala itu masjid dibangun secara swadaya yang melibatkan seluruh penduduk Pulau Penyengat hingga Kepri. Banyak sumbangan bahan material dan makanan. Salah satu yang terbanyak disumbangkan adalah telur, sehingga orang-orang yang bekerja bosan menyantapnya setiap hari. Mereka pun memilih hanya menyantap kuning telur.

Kondisi tersebut mengilhami arsitek memanfaatkan putih telur yang tersia-siakan. Putih telur lantas dicampurkan dalam material bangunan lainnya seperti pasir, kapur, dan tanah liat. Ternyata, putih telur menjadi perekat yang sangat kuat, sehingga masjid yang memiliki 13 kubah berbentuk seperti bawang itu tetap berdiri kokoh hingga kini. Julukan ‘’Masjid Putih Telur’’ pun tersemat.

Sementara, pemakaian cat kuning yang membungkus hampir seluruh bagian luar dan dalam masjid juga bukan tanpa pertimbangan. Kuning merupakan warna kebesaran Bangsa Melayu. Aksen hijau ditambahkan untuk menambah nilai estetika. Saat mengelilingi Pulau Penyengat, saya melihat semua bangunan bersejarah juga berwarna kuning dengan aksen hijau.

Saat memasuki ruangan utama masjid, terdapat sebuah mushaf Al Qur’an berukuran cukup besar dalam kaca. Inilah mushaf Al Qur’an tulisan tangan Abdurrahman Stambul, putra Riau asli Pulau Penyengat yang diutus sultan untuk belajar di Turki pada 1867.

Juga terdapat mushaf Al Qur’an tulisan tangan lain yang berusia lebih tua ketimbang umur bangunan masjid. Mushaf Al Qur’an yang ditulis Abdullah Al Bugisi pada 1752 ini tersimpan bersama sekitar 300 kitab lain, tetapi tidak diperlihatkan kepada pengunjung.

Mimbar masjid terbuat dari kayu jati yang dipesan khusus dari Jepara, Jawa Tengah. Di sampingnya terdapat piring berisi pasir tanah Makkah al-Mukarramah serta benda-benda lain dari tanah Arab yang dibawa Raja Ahmad Engku Haji Tua, bangsawan pertama Riau-Lingga yang menunaikan ibadah haji ke Tanah Suci Mekkah pada 1820. Lampu kristal yang menggantung indah dalam masjid merupakan hadiah dari Kerajaan Prusia (Jerman) pada 1860-an.

Pada bagian kiri dan kanan halaman depan masjid terdapat dua bangunan rumah sotoh serta dua balai tempat pertemuan. Balai dipakai sebagai tempat untuk menunggu waktu shalat tiba, terkadang juga untuk istirahat dan berkesenian. Sementara, rumah sotoh dulu dimanfaatkan sebagai tempat belajar, khususnya ilmu agama.

Di samping masjid terdapat menara yang, salah satunya, dipakai muadzin untuk mengumandangkan adzan. Pada bagian belakang terdapat makam dan tempat wudhu di kiri-kanan.

GEDUNG MESIU

Saya menggunakan jasa becak (yang digerakkan motor) untuk mengelilingi Pulau Penyengat. Gedung Mesiu menjadi persinggahan pertama. Bangunannya berwarna kuning khas Melayu, dikelilingi pepohonan rindang. Seluruh bagian gedung bersejarah ini terbuat dari beton berdinding kokoh dan tebal, dilengkapi jeruji besi.

Saat perang, gedung yang didirikan pada masa kejayaan Kerajaan Riau ini dipakai untuk menyimpan bubuk mesiu. Awalnya, terdapat empat gedung serupa. Letaknya berdekatan untuk mempermudah prajurit saat berperang. Kini hanya tersisa satu gedung mesiu.

KOMPLEKS MAKAM

Tidak jauh dari Gedung Mesiu, terdapat kompleks makam Yang Dipertuan Muda Riau VII Raja Abdurrahman. Menuju pintu gerbangnya saya harus berjalan kaki meniti beberapa anak tangga.

Pada kompleks makam yang dikelilingi pagar tembok berhias berbagai ukiran itu terdapat sekitar 50 makam. Makam raja berada di depan pintu gerbang. Bentuk batu nisan makam-makam tersebut menggambarkan jenis kelamin yang dimakamkan; bulat untuk laki-laki dan pipih bagi perempuan.

Terdapat satu lagi kompleks makam bersejarah di Pulau Penyengat, yaitu Kompleks Makam Raja Hamidah (Engku Puteri), Permaisuri Sultan Mahmud Shah III Riau-Lingga (1760—1812). Bentuk makam Engku Putri unik, dibangun dari batu bata menyerupai masjid dengan atap bertingkat.

Dikenal gigih menentang penjajahan Belanda, Engku Putri juga merupakan tangan kanan Yang Dipertuan Muda VI Raja Jaafar. Pulau Penyengat bahkan dinyatakan sebagai mahar Sultan Mahmud Syah III kepada Engku Putri.

Dalam kompleks makam ini ini juga terdapat makam para pembesar Kerajaan Riau, di antaranya Raja Haji Abdullah dan Raja Ali Haji. Di depan makam terdapat Gurindam Dua Belas karya Raja Ali Haji.

ISTANA KANTOR

Selanjutnya, becak membawa saya menuju Istana Kantor. Pada masa lalu angunan ini merupakan istana milik Raja Ali (1844—1857) dengan luas mencapai 1 hektare. Kerap disebut Marhum Kantor, sebagian bangunan istana ini telah hancur. Namun, bangunan utama dua tingkat, juga difungsikan sebagai kantor, masih berdiri kokoh. Pintu gerbang dan pagar tembok yang mengelilingi, serta menara pengintai juga masih berdiri.

BALAI ADAT

Tempat terakhir yang saya sambangi adalah bangunan kaya budaya bernama Balai Adat Indera Perkasa. Masyarakat setempat memanfaatkannya sebagai gedung serbaguna serta untuk kegiatan daerah. Menghadap laut, gedung ini juga dilengkapi dermaga yang menjorok ke lautan.

Balai Adat Indera Perkasa memiliki Balai Utama berukuran cukup besar, dilengkapi lima buah balai kecil yang mengelilinginya. Deretan puisi Gurindam Dua Belas menyambut saat melewati pintu depan.

Pada bagian dalam terdapat ruangan bergaya Melayu yang didesain khusus untuk acara pernikahan. Foto-foto sultan terpajang pada dinding atas gedung. Pada bagian bawah, terdapat mata air alami pemberi kesegaran di tengah terik matahari. Di sini saya menutup perjalanan di Pulau Penyengat sebelum kembali ke Kota Tanjungpinang.

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